Since we are currently in the middle of a pandemic, most of us are probably spending less time thinking about what we wear on a daily basis. In fact, statistics prove we are. Sales of jeans, once an American staple, have declined so much that True Religion and Lucky Brand have filed for bankruptcy this year while sales of sweatpants have gone through the roof!
Nonetheless, despite the lack of thought going into our clothing today, I thought I'd remind us all how we used to think about clothing. Remember the famous line from all the red carpets, "Who are you wearing?" Well, today, we are going to ask "Why are you wearing?" Buckle up.
The Environment
Perhaps the first reason to choose to cover our bodies. The earliest humans found out very quickly that covering the body was a necessity to survive the harsh climatic conditions that existed at the time. Animal hides were used not for fashion but for survival. Although this reason to choose clothing is less prominent today, there are still cultures around the world that must operate in this way due to harsh temperatures. The Inuit, for example, use caribou hides for winter survival as this hide is an excellent insulator.
Social Status
Ah, my favorite! This one is still alive and kicking today but it was a much more strict way to dress hundreds, if not thousands, of years ago. Let's start with the Romans, for example. The way a typical Roman dressed told you everything you needed to know about his/her stature in society and, therefore, how he/she should be treated. Typically, the shorter your hemline, the lower your class. Additionally, natural colored fibers were a signifier of lower class or slave status, while rich purples and reds were signs of political and social elite. Social status became a little more extreme in the form of sumptuary laws -- laws that forbade classes of people from wearing certain types of garments, certain colors, and certain fabrics.
A disturbing use of clothing and adornment as an indicator of class or group was in the 1930s. Nazi Germany required Jewish citizens to have the Star of David embroidered to their clothing. This requirement made them sub-human, easier to scapegoat and, eventually, easier to round-up to concentration camps. Additionally, in the United States, slaves were not allowed to wear any type of clothing that may make them indistinguishable as owned property.
Social status is a very prominent reason throughout history and allowed us to treat other humans with complete inhumanity. However, this reason is equally prominent today... we just have another name for it. Conspicuous consumption. Ever wonder why luxury brands like Louis Vuitton sell items with their logo all over it? Their logo is suggestive of wealth and the individual wearing it, by having their logo on their body, can suggest quietly a level of social class and wealth that is easily recognizable to others.
Profession
This ultimately depends on which profession you go into, but some types require a "uniform" in order to cultivate a sense of trust with your clients. Think of a doctor. Regardless of how impressive their credentials really are, there's an element of trust placed in an individual in a white coat. Likewise, we expect leaders of countries to look professional at all times. Their appearance indirectly contributes to not only their assumed level of professionalism and competency, but the respectability of the nation they represent.
Religion
Religion is a central component of many individual's lives around the world. Some religions, like Christianity, do not require the wearing of any particular garments on a daily basis unless your profession is tied to the church. Whereas many other religions, such as Islam, do. People can choose to prominently display their religion (hijab) or subtly display their religion (small crucifix jewelry). The interesting thing about religious clothing from a fashion perspective is that color was a point of contention for hundreds of years in Christendom. The Cistercians believed that black was the color of piety and purity, while the Cluniacs believed it to be white. We know who ultimately won that debate but it is interesting that many a Christian garb feature both black and white.
Power and Wealth
This is very similar to social status but on a much grander scale. My favorite example of overdoing fashion is 18th century France. Women's dresses were required to be so large that the poor courtiers could not fit through doorways. Courtiers also went bankrupt trying to fulfill the incredible fashion guidelines of the French court. The reason for this lavishness was that fashion power = financial power = political power. All were tied in the eyes of the French court, so the more ridiculous your outfit, the more power you had to wield. See Marie Antoinette below for some casual wear inspiration...
Political Statements
Dress has always been used to make statements about political, social, and economic inequity. Miniskirts in the 196os were a response to the suburban housewife movement of the 1950s. The 1970s brought whimsical fashion to represent the counterculture movement. The suffragist movement used white as their dominant color to counteract claims that women asking for the right to vote was "sinful" and "impure". More recently, no clothing has been a statement against the fur trade, the Women's March in 2017 used pink hats, Black Lives Matter use t-shirts, and the Trump MAGA movement use red hats. This reason for dress has always existed and is used no more than ever. It is astonishing to see the impact that fashion has made on progressive agendas over the centuries when fashion in the eyes of many is frivolous and unimpactful.
So, why do you dress the way you do? Which makes you feel most powerful or most like yourself? Let me know in the comments!
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